It was just a short run up the Returd Highway to Katherine
from Mataranka, only 100 or so kilometres. On the way we stopped to visit the
Cutta Cutta Cave – limestone formation just south of Katherine. The day was hot
so I was looking forward to going underground for a brief respite from the
heat. There was an audible groan as we entered the cave and our guide informed
us that “this cave is different from other caves in that the temperature and
humidity actually increase as we go further in”. And it did. It had some
impressive limestone formations. We were all sweating so much at the end that
we were forming our own stalactites with the drips off our chins.
We spent three days in Katherine. It had all the
conveniences of life for travellers, although I couldn’t help noticing the
travails that the modern pioneering man has these days with getting adequate TV
reception! Modern pioneering man will spend hours adjusting that pesky disk
receiver until the elusive signal is found. Usually it seems, reception is “grainy”,
which does little for Kochy’s features on Sunrise, however much one invests in
satellite technology.
It’s pretty well obligatory to tour the gorges at Katherine.
We are about two to four weeks ahead of the tourist season at the moment – the
water levels are only just dropping down, there is still turbidity, there are
still possibly crocodiles of the man-eating variety in the gorges, and the
volume of tourists isn’t there. Consequently, you can’t swim, you can’t canoe,
and you only have limited boat tour options to take up. Nevertheless, a boat
tour we did, and enjoyed it too. Actually while we aren’t anywhere near the
peak tourist season, this is probably a good time to see the country as there
is still good run-off into the waterways and the area is green – another month
or two, you’re down to trickles and brown, dried-out grasses.
Edith Falls is still part of the Nitmiluk National Park that
contains the Katherine Gorges but about 60 kilometres north of the town. Edith
Falls itself is pleasant but again, you can’t use the water area at the park
because of crocodiles. However one kilometre up a fairly steep walking track
takes you to the Upper Pool where the crocs haven’t figured out how to get to
yet and it is just a glorious rocky swimming hole. Unfortunately it was filled
with Swedish and German backpackers in their early twenties in bikinis basking
in the sun and frolicking in the pools, and that spoiled it a bit for me. We were
the oldest couple there by far. Gee, it was worth the walk! (sorry guys,
couldn’t get a snapshot for you).
Upper Pool, Edith Falls
Maurs cooling off at the Upper Pool
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