It’s a cattle station about 140 kilometres by road from
Broome (50 kilometres as the crow flies) and within it lies a caravan park
nestled on cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean: Barn Hill is really quite
pretty if not a little on the unsophisticated side. We are camped in the
unpowered area meaning we are relying on Vic and Cheryl’s generator for any
electricity we may need (we get by on 12 hours a day quite easily). The
amenities block is...very airy, to say the least. But at least the toilets
flush and if you shower in the afternoon then the coils of black poly pipe
lying on the ground will provide warm water (woe betide those who shower late for
they are consigned to a cold water, hurried wash – we even overheard a lady [obviously
not in the “know”] trying to have a shower at 5.30 in the morning saying to her
husband “I’ve tried both taps and they’re both cold!”) You see, this is what
you get if you don’t ask questions around the camp – ignorance is no excuse).
The shower block, Barn HillLoos with views, Barn Hill
We have been blessed with a campsite right on the coastal
cliff, much coveted by other campers who become relegated to a spot in the
backblocks – it’s a site that you hang on to if you can and we are staying for
as long as possible, weather permitting, while the other campers plot and
scheme and try to guess when the prime space may become available. And yes, we
have been caught up in some unseasonal rain through this part of the world
although Barn Hill has fared better than the poor sods down the road in
Karratha where 200 mm were dumped on them in 24 hours. We might have got a
tenth of that amount. Can’t complain though, this is the first bit of weather
that we have seen since leaving the Clare Valley in South Australia at Easter.
A bonus from the rain was witnessing a flight of Frigate birds hovering above
the shore and taking turns to dive and flutter their wings to shake off the
annoying raindrops accumulating on their feathers (be careful we don’t subject
you to the movie we took of it next time we see you).
The Barn Hill campsiteSunset from the campsite
We discovered a casualty to our camper, probably from the
Gibb River Road experience, but the long plastic tube on the back that carries
our tent poles had been jolted loose and was found just hanging on. Repairs
were needed lest our tube of tent poles be found lying on the highway next to
Kevin’s caravan door (see last episode for further explanation). With Vic’s
help and electric drill and another camper’s pop rivet gun we made the
necessary repairs, ready to resume the travels safe in the knowledge that
there’s a secure home for the tent poles.
A tradesman (Vic) and his mug helper fixing the camper
A lot of people come to Barn Hill year after year to sit out
the southern winter so it’s a real community feel down at the powered area,
probably like the feel one gets in an old people’s home when one’s special time
has come. Everyone says hello whether you want to or not. The beach is
beautiful and behind the beach abuts sandstone rock formations with vivid red
shades to contrast against the blue sea and white sand. There are a lot of keen
fishermen here but we’ve yet to see evidence of many fish (a familiar story). I
saw one old bloke simply give up and feed his remaining bait to the grateful
seagulls.
Maurs on the RocksThe foreshore at Barn Hill (Gus digs a hole for himself)
The other day we decided to visit the Eco Resort that lies
up the beach past a few headlands. We didn’t know how far it was – now we do –
a 17.4 kilometre round trip, best done at low tide to get around the rocky
bits. We had lunch there – all very nice and civilised. Being there though took
me back to 2000 when Barry Hanstrum and I were working the cyclone warning
centre and we watched on radar as cyclone Rosita blew the whole resort away
with Category 5 ferocity, but it has recovered very well.
The first week here we just walked the beach and swam and
suntanned but then we had those few days of watching the rain form puddles
around us and wondering when it will go away. Well it did go away but was
replaced with a blast of easterlies that has been buffeting us and testing the
sturdiness of our campers and annexes. I figured it out – this is why people
live in HOUSES!!! We have limited internet access here - we must be right on
the edge of internet range as it floats in and out – mostly out.
Victor in repose - on the beach
We have spent 15 days in the warmth of Barn Hill but it’s
getting to be July and we need to be back in Perth in order to get off the
Returd Highway and back into a more normal existence. I mean, we can’t have fun
forever can we? So it’s a compass heading of south soon, leaving our friends
Vic and Cheryl to squeeze the last bit of heat into their remaining holiday
while we plunge into cooler climes. However, it’s not over til it’s finally
over.
And what’s biting me today? Sandflies!!
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