Katherine to Kununurra

There really isn’t a lot of information about this 500 kilometre stretch of road. I mean, there are maps with names on it and bits of descriptions of localities, but what it’s really like is not clear, at least it wasn’t to us. For instance Victoria River Crossing and Timber Creek (about midway between the “K”s) are only 90 kilometres apart – which one to stay at? We had time on our side so we stayed at both and I can report that Victoria River Crossing was our personal winner – the pub, its meals, the campground – all good and full of character– plus the scenic walk up the nearby escarpment was magnificent. Timber Creek was just that little bit seedier by comparison and while the nearby sights were interesting (the Gregory Boab Tree that Gregory inscribed in 1856, the lookout above the town, Policeman’s Point on the Victoria River), it wouldn’t be enough to hold you there for a night.

                   The Escarpment at Victoria River Crossing (Click on it for a better view)

                         "And when he was only halfway up, he was neither up nor down!"

Gregory's Tree - a Boab of some age and stature (Augustus Gregory was an early explorer)

Another 160 kilometres west of Timber Creek is the turnoff to the Zebra Rock Mine Resort. It’s pretty basic and the camp sites are unpowered, but the people are really friendly and the atmosphere is very bushy and relaxed. We did a bird watching tour by boat on nearby Lake Argyle on Mothers’ Day and birds there were - in profusion! We or at least Maurs in particular, were hopeful of laying eyes on a colony of Yellow Chats, a rare species apparently. To see them we had to leave our vessel and wade 100 metres through mud and weed (Maurs being height challenged found this more of an issue than myself and Max the guide) and then tramp over this flat island to scare out the chats. In fact we scared out no chats at all on that day and returned to the boat tired and conspicuously chatless. Nevertheless on the way back home we stopped out in the deep clear water of the lake for a cup of tea. Max the guide said “I can’t resist this” and threw himself overboard to cool off. It crossed my mind to start up the engine and head back the 5 kilometres to the boat ramp but instead Maurs and I followed him in and enjoyed the wonderful waters of the lake. It really is good swimming.

                  Lake Argyle is about 9 Sydney Harbours of fresh water (and great to swim in)

Maurs had a really birdy kind of day or two as she found a small waterhole near the camp where quite a variety of feathered friends showed up for a drink and a bath, including some Gouldian Finches (also an infrequently seen species these days). She was very happy.

                                     Gouldians! Worth a couple of hours bird watching to see.

Zebra Rock itself is a curious piece of geology and this is the last mine of the stuff in the world. It can be shaped and sculpted by those who know how, so the gallery there is full of arty little (and not so little) items for sale. Our host Ruth (a lovely lady with a brand new 5-month old daughter) also baked delicious scones with jam and cream, and offered fish and chips utilising the local Silver Cobbler from the lake for the fish. It’s a great eating fish. We did have an enjoyable two nights at this place.

We drove the 60 kilometres to Kununurra, arriving 30 minutes before we left, thanks to the 90 minute time difference between WA and the NT. What’s worse is that we are back on home soil now but our body clocks are still in the Territory and consequently we are waking up at 4.30am. We have accomplished our mission and rendezvoused with our friends Vic and Cheryl (who made a mighty dash from Perth in a very short time to keep their end of the bargain) and are now busy provisioning for our next leg – the Gibb River Road. Believe me things have got a whole lot better since they showed up.

                                          Aahhhhh! Easy on that foot massage Cheryl!! Luxury....

The Gibb River Road is a sparse stretch of about 800 kilometres but very beautiful apparently. There are no shops, no communications (for us at least), no bitumen. You won’t hear from us until we emerge from the other side. For some that may be a blessed relief! Be mindful in about 4 weeks for a fresh update, tentatively entitled “Tales from the Gibb River Road”.